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深圳街头小吃:从早餐到各类烧烤

日期: 2017-05-09
浏览次数: 26
来源: 海龙教育集团

深圳街头小吃:从早餐到各类烧烤



Hi, I’m Amanda. Officially, I’m here to teach, but unofficially I’m here to eat everything in sight. This isn’t a strictly Chinese phenomenon: I’m a really good eater, and I’ve spent the last few years grazing my way across countries. I have no known food allergies, am arguably the least picky eater in any given 50km radius, have a stomach (not abs) of steel, and live by one very strict rule: always try food twice even if you hate it, just in case the first person messed it up. 


Which brings me here, assigned to tell you about my adventures and misadventures with Shenzhen’s street food. I have eaten a lot since I arrived but I also know I’ve barely scratched the surface and am limited by a word count, so please forgive me for missing things you think are perfect. And then, please send smoke signals to tell me where to find them. Okay, let’s dive in. 


First, a Few Quick Words of Advice

If you’re new to the street food game, Dongmen Food Market in Laojie is a fabulous place to start. Ignore the overwhelming stinky tofu smell and the complete lack of air circulation that makes it feel like you could pass out on that suspiciously slippery floor and just power through. Multiple floors crammed with stalls doling out both Chinese and international eats (my dear banana roti…I digress). They have some of the most consistently delicious meat skewers I’ve found so far. Big chunks of well-cooked beef or lamb (minus the gristle that you often run into at the smaller carts around the city), showered in salt and cumin. Get ready for meat sweats. 


Keep an eye out for local set-ups. I may live a lifetime away from downtown Shenzhen while out in the Longgang District, but I won the street food jackpot and have a bountiful night market that sets up every evening. It’s always packed with local residents and zero other foreigners. This is food done right and certainly not catering to tourists…because there are none.


A Word on Breakfast


Breakfast is the greatest, it’s not up for discussion. And, lucky for me, China street food completely agrees with this sentiment. Beyond the ubiquitous baozi (steamed buns), boiled eggs, soy milk, and youtiao (donut sticks) breakfast options which are absolutely delicious, there are some even more impressive gems to be found.


Cheongfun: affectionately called “eggy noodles” by…me. The first time I had it, I wasn’t a fan but now it’s in my regular rotation so give it a few tries. And add spicy things. Extra points for spicy pickled peppers. It’s a dish reminiscent of scrambled eggs mixed with wide, flat egg noodles, served with a mushroom garlic soy sauce. Keep your eyes peeled for the steaming metal boxes on the street because that’s where the magic happens. 


Jianbing: my Shenzhen food obsession. My love for jianbing is equally absurd and entirely warranted. I stumbled across it on day two upon arrival in Shenzhen back in the fall and will squeal when I see it. A giant, thick crepe, slathered with sauces of the vendor’s choosing, some veggies, an egg, cilantro (extra, please!), chili sauce, a crunchy deep-fried wonton, rolled up and served…it’s beyond street food perfection. 


Occasionally, you’ll get the option of youtiao (soft wonton) in your jianbing, but do yourself a favor and get the deep-fried wonton, the extra crunch texture is what really seals the deal. 


Top 5 Bonus Round: Street Eats That aren’t Breakfast 

1)  Noodle carts: Pick your noodles (rice, egg, wheat, fat, thin), pick your sauce (no earthly idea… just point and hope for the best, promise to work on your Mandarin for next time, return the next time with no new Mandarin skills, and repeat), pick your veggies, pick your seasoning, and watch the magic happen.


2)  Zongzi: Confession: I do not like rice cake. I’ve tried it in all its forms, and it still comes off as a chewy ball with not enough flavor. However, zongzi makes me a believer. It’s rice cake (with peanuts in the best ones), stuffed with meat, formed into a triangle, wrapped in bamboo leaves, and steamed. 


3)  Conyoubing: I have a carb lady in my neighborhood (as every human should), and she always has a delightful selection but I always go back to the savory “pancake.” A flatbread of sorts with scallions and fried on a flat top with extra oil (no street food is complete without a healthy doses of oil). These flatbreads are usually served sprinkled with sesame seeds and sometimes with a chili sauce spread on top. Crispy, flaky, chewy, spicy…it’s all the things I love in bite-sizes pieces of bread.


4)  Chinese burritos: …or street sandwiches, if you will. Doughy, thick, round bread fried with oil (obviously) on a griddle, with egg, meat of your choosing, an ever-changing assortment of veggies such as potatoes, lettuce, cucumbers and the like, cilantro, ketchup and mayo. Traditional? Nope. A perfect treat on a Wednesday after work? Absolutely.


5)  Quail eggs skewers: I love quail eggs because it’s everything great about a chicken egg in one little bite. So, you can imagine my delight when I discovered China serves fried quail eggs on skewers. Add some salt and take those eggs to go!


Okay that’s all for this month, kids. I leave this wisdom in good hands, I’m sure. Now, go forth and fill your belly.

Dongmen Food Market is located on Xinyuan Road on Dongmen Pedestrian Street, Laojie station on Line 3, exit G. 


各位好,我是阿曼达。严格来讲,我来这里是教书的;不过不那么严格来说,我来这是来品尝目之所及的一切美食的。这不是我在中国时才出现的情况:我是一个挺厉害的老饕,过去几年,我在呆过的那些国家吃了一路。目前我都还没有什么已知的过敏食物,可以说自己是方圆50公里内最不挑食的人。我有一个铁打的胃(不是腹肌),而且我吃东西有一条非常简单的规矩:无论你多讨厌那份食物,都得尝两遍,以防你讨厌它仅仅是因为你第一次吃的时候那厨子把它搞砸了。

我来这儿是为了跟诸位分享我在品尝深圳街头小吃是那些有趣和糟糕的经历的。自从来到深圳,我已经品尝了很多美食,但我也清楚我只是浅尝辄止,并且只能用寥寥数语来描述我的经历,所以如果我漏了些你觉得特别棒的美食,请原谅我。然后记得发地址给我,告诉我在哪能找到它。好了,我们开始吧。


首先,一些建议

如果在品尝小吃这一块儿你还是个新手,在老街的东门美食市场是一个绝佳的开始地点。别管那些满哪儿都有的臭哄哄的臭豆腐味儿和污浊不堪到让你感觉随时都能在那滑溜溜的地板上晕倒的空气,赶紧穿过去就行了。各个楼层都塞满了卖中外美食的摊位(我最爱的香蕉飞饼啊……跑题了)。目前我找到一些小店,他们卖的肉串一直都很好吃。大块大块烤好的牛肉和羊肉(不是那种你经常在城里买的那种骨肉相连)上洒满了盐粒和孜然。准备大快朵颐一番吧。

仔细去看那些当地的餐厅。我可能这辈子都只能住在龙岗而没机会搬进深圳的中心区里,但我也绝对赢得了吃小吃的这项头奖而且每天还有一大堆夜市可以逛。这些地方一直都只挤满了当地人而没有一个外国人。这些吃的做得很正宗,很显然不是做给游客吃的……因为那儿根本没有游客。


关于早餐

毫无疑问,早餐绝对是一天里最棒的。幸运的是,中国的小吃完全验证了我的看法。除了那些绝对美味的包子(蒸的小面包),煮鸡蛋,豆浆和油条(油炸的面包)可选择作为早餐外,还能找到其他印象深刻的美食。

肠粉:我……呃……更喜欢叫它“像蛋的面”。第一次吃的时候,我并没多喜欢肠粉,但多吃了几回之后,它现在成了我常点的菜。我还会加一点辣的佐料。尤其喜欢加剁椒酱。它能让人联想到把炒蛋和其他东西放到一起,只是这次是滑溜溜的面配上蘑菇、大蒜、酱油。仔细观察那些街边的金属蒸箱,因为那就是奇迹发生的地方。

煎饼果子:这是令我着迷的一种深圳美食。我对煎饼果子既爱得合情合理但也荒唐可笑。那是在秋天,当我到达深圳后第二天,我偶然发现了它,就兴奋得尖叫起来。一张大大的、厚厚的煎饼上抹满了小贩特制的酱汁,加上一些蔬菜、一个鸡蛋、香菜(多来点,谢谢!)、一些辣酱、加上炸得脆脆的馄饨,卷好之后送到你手上……它简直比最完美的小吃还好吃。

偶尔,你还能把油条(或干馄饨)加进果子里,不过随便选完后,你可以加一些炸馄饨,那种特别的脆脆的口感才是煎饼果子精髓所在。


5点终极加分项:不是早餐的小吃

1)面摊:挑一种你喜欢的面条(米做的、鸡蛋做的、麦子做的、多油的、少油的),挑一下酱汁(不要用那种用烂的配方……就往你喜欢的随便挑,学会如何用中文讲那些东西,下次来的时候,重复一遍就行了),挑一些蔬菜、挑一些佐料,然后就见证奇迹吧。

2)粽子:坦白点说,我不喜欢米糕类制品。我尝过所有的米糕制品,无论如何都感觉只是一个有嚼头但没多少味道的球。但是,粽子却改变了我的态度。这是一种米糕(最好吃的那种里头还有花生),里面用肉馅填满,用竹叶裹成三角形后送去蒸。

3)葱油饼:我有一个特别不挑食的女邻居(就像每个人都有的那样),她只要是好吃的就喜欢吃,但我只是见到各种“煎饼”才忍不住想吃。各式各样的面饼撒上葱花,在面饼上抹满食用油(没有那种小吃会用少量油做成的)。通常这些面饼上还撒着芝麻粒,有时上面还抹着辣椒酱。一口下去,又酥又脆还有嚼头,同时又有些辣……我爱的各种感觉都在这里了。

4)鸡蛋卷饼:你要乐意的话……叫它街头三明治也成。把一张圆圆的、又软又厚的饼摊在烤盘上用油(当然)煎,加一些蛋或肉,加些从不重样儿的诸如土豆、生菜、黄瓜等蔬菜,加些香菜,一些番茄酱和蛋黄酱。传统?根本不会。是周三下班后最好的犒劳?绝对是。

5)鹌鹑蛋串:我爱吃鹌鹑蛋,因为它包含了鸡蛋的所有优点,但只有一丁点大。所以当我发现在中国居然有成串儿的烤鹌鹑蛋卖的时候,你能明白我有多高兴了吧。在上面撒些盐就能吃了!


好了朋友们,这个月我们就先聊到这。我相信我把这些智慧传给了正确的人。现在,去填饱你们的肚子吧。

东门美食市场位于东门步行街的新园路,在地铁3号线老街站G口附近。




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